Stetind, also known as Stetinden in Norwegian or Stádda in Lule Sami, is a majestic mountain situated in Narvik Municipality, Nordland County, Norway, approximately 15 kilometers northeast of the village of Kjøpsvik. With its smooth sides reaching all the way to the fjord, Stetind’s obelisk shape makes it one of the most distinctive mountains in the region. Standing tall at 1392 meters above sea level, Stetind offers a breathtaking view of the surrounding area.
Over the years, several attempts were made to climb Stetind, with the first being made by German Paul Güssfeldt and Norwegian Martin Ekrol in 1888. In 1889, Danish Carl Hall and Norwegian mountain guide Mathias Soggemoen also attempted to climb the mountain, but both attempts were unsuccessful. However, Carl Hall set up a pole on the lower summit about 500 meters southeast of the main summit, which is now known as Halls fortopp with a height of 1304 meters. In 1904, William Cecil Slingsby also failed to reach the top of the mountain.
It was not until July 30, 1910, that Ferdinand Schjelderup, Carl Wilhelm Rubenson, and Alf Bonnevie Bryn finally reached the summit of Stetind. With good weather conditions, Rubenson, who celebrated his 25th birthday, had the honor of being the first to set foot on the highest point of the mountain. The most challenging part of the climb was passing the smooth rock called “Mysosten,” which Rubenson crossed only by holding on to his fingers. After this section, there was an easy climb to the top. The same three climbers continued their 1910 trip by climbing the Lofoten peaks Svolværgeita and Trakta.
In 1963, Arne Næss, Ralph Høibakk, and K. Friis Baasted climbed Stetind for the first time in winter on the east wall. In 1966, Arne Næss and four others were the first to climb the summit via the west face.
Stetind’s name is derived from the Sami word “ste,” meaning “anvil,” and “tind,” meaning “mountain top.” While some have described Stetind as the ugliest mountain they have ever seen, its unique shape and challenging climb make it a popular destination for climbers.
Climbing Stetind to reach the summit requires climbing equipment and experience. It is advisable to hire local guides for a safe and enjoyable climb. The most difficult section of the climb is 15-20 meters long (Norwegian class 4+), which includes an 800-meter cliff that will be under the feet of the climber, offering an unforgettable feeling and sight. The climb to the top and back takes between 10 and 14 hours, depending on the experience and physical condition of the climbers.
