SummitClimbs Field Note: Oksskolten (Southern Sami: Uktsiesnjurhtjien åejjie) is the highest mountain in Northern Norway, at 1,915.75 m by Norwegian Wikipedia’s figure, usually rounded to 1,916 m. It stands in the Okstindan massif in Hemnes, Nordland, between Korgen to the west, Spjeltfjelldalen to the east and the lake Røssvatnet to the south. The normal route starts at the DNT hut Kjennsvasshytta and crosses a glacier, so this is a summit for experienced parties with rope and crampons, not a trail walk. Ut.no grades the round trip “extra demanding”: 18.3 km, about 8 hours and 1,408 m of ascent.
The Roof of Northern Norway
The name means “bull’s head”. Oksskolten is the highest point in Nordland county and has Norway’s eighth-largest primary factor; it is one of only five mountains in Scandinavia with a primary factor over 1,000 m and a secondary factor over 100 km. The mountain lies just south of the lake Gresvatnet, and the big Okstindbreen glacier spreads out to its west. Okstindbreen is the eighth-largest glacier on the Norwegian mainland and covered 76 km² in 1910. The first recorded ascent was made by Peder Stordal in 1883.
From the summit, ut.no describes a unique view from the Tärna mountains in Sweden in the east to Træna out in the sea to the west.
Oksskolten at a Glance
- Height: 1,915.75 m (often given as 1,916 m); highest in Northern Norway and in Nordland
- Location: Okstindan, Hemnes, Nordland
- Start: Kjennsvasshytta (DNT, self-service, 28 beds, DNT key)
- Distance and ascent: 18.3 km and 1,408 m there and back (ut.no)
- Time: about 8 hours
- Grade: extra demanding; experienced hikers only
- Season: June to September
- Gear: rope and crampons or ice grippers on the glacier
- First recorded ascent: Peder Stordal, 1883
The Normal Route From Kjennsvasshytta
Ut.no’s route follows the construction road for about 2 km to a sign marked Leirbekkhaugen Okstindan. At Ridarhammeren you cross the Austisen glacier southwards to the foot of Oksskolten, then go straight south and along the ridge to the top. The ascent passes through very steep ground with large boulders.
Norwegian Wikipedia describes the same line in more detail. A path leads from Kjennsvasshytta up to Austre Okstindbreen; it is fairly steep but easy walking. Then comes the glacier crossing, where you should either be used to glaciers or bring a guide, and in any case wear crampons and preferably go roped. When the snow has melted, Austre Okstindbreen is a relatively straightforward glacier: there are some crevasses, but on bare blue ice they are easy to see. Getting on and off the ice has proved trickier than the crossing itself, because there are not safe ice bridges onto the rock everywhere. After the glacier come a few hundred metres of steep rock with no marked path. On the plateau, turn right towards the summit, scramble up through boulders to the top plateau, and finish on a flat walk to the highest point.
A harder and less-used route goes via the northeast ridge, reached by turning left on the plateau above the glacier. It requires protection gear and experience of climbing and travel on snow-covered glaciers.
Before You Go
- Getting there: from the E12 at Umbukta, turn off to Umskaret and follow the construction road about 40 km (summer only) to Kjennsvasshytta.
- The hut: Kjennsvasshytta by Kjennsvatnet is a self-service DNT hut, open all year and locked with the DNT key; you must be a DNT member to get a key. Bring your own sheet sleeping bag.
- Glacier skills: ut.no recommends the tour only for experienced hikers, ideally with someone who knows the route. If your party lacks glacier and crevasse-rescue skills, go with a certified guide.
- Weather: check the mountain forecast on yr.no, and turn back in poor visibility on the glacier.
The SummitClimbs Take
Oksskolten is the summit that tops all of Northern Norway, and it makes you earn it: a long day from Kjennsvasshytta, a glacier crossing and a steep boulder ridge, rewarded by a view from Sweden to the sea. Come with rope, crampons and glacier skills, or with a guide.
Facts from ut.no (Oksskolten 1916 moh – høyest i Nord-Norge), ut.no (Kjennsvasshytta), Norwegian Wikipedia (Oksskolten), Wikipedia and Okstindbreen. Always check current conditions before you go.