Midtre Tverråtinden (2,302 m) – a Jotunheimen Glacier Peak

SummitClimbs Field Note: Midtre Tverråtinden (2,302 m) is the 20th-highest summit in Norway. It is one of the Tverråtindan peaks in Lom, on the south side of the Svellnosbrean glacier in Jotunheimen National Park, and is usually climbed from the staffed DNT lodge Spiterstulen in Visdalen. It is a glacier mountain, so plan it as a glacier tour with rope, crampons and someone who can lead on ice.

Among the Giants of Jotunheimen

Midtre Tverråtinden lies about 28 km southwest of Fossbergom (Lom) and about 43 km northeast of Øvre Årdal. It is ringed by other big names: Svellnosbreahesten to the north, Store Tverråtinden to the west, Bukkehøe and Lindbergtinden to the southwest, Store Bukkeholstinden to the southwest, and Store Styggehøe and Bukkeholshøe to the southeast. Galdhøpiggen, Norway’s highest mountain, rises just across Svellnosbrean.

Midtre Tverråtinden at a Glance

• Height: 2,302 m, the 20th-highest summit in Norway
• Location: Tverråtindan, Lom, Innlandet; Jotunheimen National Park
• Glacier: on the south side of Svellnosbrean; Tverråbreen below to the south
• Base: Spiterstulen (1,111 m), a staffed lodge with 280 beds
• Neighbours: Store Tverråtinden, Svellnosbreahesten, Bukkehøe, Lindbergtinden, Store Styggehøe

Spiterstulen: the Base

Spiterstulen is a staffed lodge at 1,111 m on the old travel route through Visdalen. It was the summer farm of the Nigard Sulheim farm; around the middle of the 1800s it was extended with guest rooms, and paid mountain guiding to Galdhøpiggen began. A toll road runs all the way to the lodge from county road 55 (Sognefjellsvegen), about 15 km southwest of Lom. Norwegian Wikipedia notes that 17 of the 26 peaks in Norway above 2,300 m can be reached on day trips from here. Ut.no lists the lodge as closed from 21 September to 11 March, so check opening times before you plan.

The Ski Line on Høgruta

Midtre Tverråtinden is part of DNT’s SignaTUR Høgruta i Jotunheimen, an extra-demanding five-day spring ski traverse (March–April). On day 4, Spiterstulen to Leirvassbu (about 18 km and 1,800 m of ascent), the route follows the normal route up Galdhøpiggen, skis down a southern gully just west of Keilhaus topp onto Svellnosbrean, climbs Midtre Tverråtinden, and skis down the south gully to Tverråbreen before continuing over Bukkeholstinden and Store Tverrbottinden to Leirvassbu. In bad weather you follow the marked winter route instead. Ut.no stresses that stage lengths are only indicative, as snow and weather may force other safe lines.

Before You Go

• Glacier terrain: the mountain sits above Svellnosbrean and Tverråbreen; go roped, with crampons and ice axe, and with someone who has glacier and crevasse-rescue skills, or a certified guide.
• No marked summer path: there is no ut.no route description for a summer ascent; ask at Spiterstulen about current glacier conditions and a safe line.
• Weather: check the mountain forecast on yr.no, and turn back in poor visibility on the ice.
• Season: Spiterstulen is closed from 21 September to 11 March.

The SummitClimbs Take

Midtre Tverråtinden is a 2,300-metre summit among Jotunheimen’s giants, reached from one of Norway’s classic mountain lodges. Climb it as part of the Høgruta ski traverse in spring, or as a guided glacier day from Spiterstulen. For more peaks nearby, see our Jotunheimen guide and Galdhøpiggen guide.

Facts from Norwegian Wikipedia (Midtre Tverråtinden), Wikipedia, Spiterstulen, ut.no (Spiterstulen Turisthytte) and ut.no (Høgruta i Jotunheimen). Always check current conditions before you go.